This minimalist technique wasn't simply a matter of preference: Many of Adrian's suits were produced during World War II, when rationing limited the amount of fabric available, which effected design features such as the length of a jacket, or the size of lapels and pockets.

Adrian worked around those constraints, creating short suit jackets with barely-there collars, pockets and zippers. This approach is reflected in Alaïa's designs too, with both men opting to work within the system, while still breaking a few of the rules.

"They loved women," Saillard said, of another similarity between the two designers. "They were very passionate (about their shape and their silhouette).

"Azzedine was very close to Naomi Campbell and Tina Turner, every kind of strong personality. And talking about Adrian, he used to design the dresses for (Greta) Garbo, for Joan Crawford -- strong women, not especially glamorous women, but strong women."

Indeed, the exhibit features designs made by Alaïa for famous models such as Campbell, who lived with him when she first moved to France as a teenager in the 1980s. Seeing the courtier as something of a father figure, she is known to have

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